Month: March 2021

Omega Introduces New ‘first Omega Into Space’ Numbered Chronometer

In 1962, astronaut Walter Schirra wore a Speedmaster into space while performing the Mercury-Hercules 8 mission. On October 3, with the launch vehicle rushing into the clear blue sky, the legendary history of Omega’s iconic Speedmaster Chronometer exploring space began. In fact, only two and a half years later, the Speedmaster was certified by NASA as ‘competent for all manned space flight missions.’
   Now, to commemorate the pioneering initiative of Walter Scheira and the historic moment when the first Speedmaster entered space, Omega has launched a new ‘first Omega into space’ numbered chronograph. This watch inherits the classic design of the Speedmaster. The case is made of 18K Sedna ™ gold, with symmetrical lugs, and the case is engraved with the 1962 hippocampus emblem.
   The brown polished ceramic bezel ring with matte chrome nitride tachymeter scale is quite unique. The PVD sub-dial and minute scale are also brown-colored and surround the silver-white center dial. The 18K Sedna ™ gold hour and minute hands incorporate Alpha and Baton hands, and the applied hour markers indicate time information.
   Similar to the famous moon watch, this watch is equipped with an Omega 1861 manual winding mechanical movement. In addition to the hippocampus emblem, the bottom of the case is engraved with the words ‘THE FIRST OMEGA IN SPACE’ and ‘OCTOBER 3, 1962’ (October 3, 1962). Omega’s new ‘First Omega into Space’ numbered chronograph has a brown leather strap with beige silk stitching.

Teardown, The World’s Thinnest Automatic Chronograph

Today, I want to talk about a very beefy watch, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph, breaking the world record. Someone has disassembled this watch abroad, and we can take a look at how the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is the thinnest in the world.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is the thinnest automatic chronograph in the world.
Before I start, I want to highlight a few points about the Bulgari OCTO:
 1. Bulgari belongs to the LVMH group, and is a brother brand with Tag Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot. In addition, Bulgari has successively acquired independent watchmaking brands such as Jero Zunda and DANIEL ROTH. In terms of watchmaking, it has very strong technical strength.
 2. Bulgari’s main men’s watch series OCTO was designed by Master Jero Zunda. Jero Zunda has designed famous watches such as Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, IWC Engineers, and Omega Constellation. Master’s hand, the octagonal appearance recognition is very high.
 3. Bulgari is one of the three major jewelry brands in the world. Like Cartier, Bulgari is very strong in watches and jewelry.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT chronograph, with a thickness of 6.9 mm, is currently the thinnest automatic chronograph.
Teardown of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT.
 Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT chronograph is the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph launched in 2019 by Bulgari. The watch is 6.9 mm thick and the BVL 318 automatic chronograph movement is 3.3 mm thick. For example, the thickness of the entire Bvlgari watch is about the same as that of the Rolex 3135 (calibre 3135 is 6 mm thick), and the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is an automatic chronograph. Hour function, power 55 hours. Titanium case, price 142000.

The Bulgari OCTO series was designed by Jero Zunda.
 The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT has a Bulgari signature octagonal case with a round bezel. The timing button on the right side of the case is symmetrical to the two-time button on the left side of the case and blends into the shape of the entire watch, which is very clever in design. At 3 o’clock on the dial of the watch, there are two-time hands, 6 o’clock is a 30-minute chronograph, and 9 o’clock is a small second hand.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT chronograph uses a self-torque edge, which has no obstruction to the movement and reduces its thickness.
 Looking at the back of the watch, we can see that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT chronograph uses an edge automatic rotor, which is located on the outer ring of the movement. While reducing the thickness of the movement, it has no obstruction to the movement and is very beautiful. From the figure we can see that after separating the case and the bezel, there is a circle of ‘rubber ring’ under the bezel, which is the waterproof rubber ring of the case.

We can see that after removing the bezel, the waterproof rubber ring in the case.
 Take out the movement, we can see the front and back of the movement intuitively. On the dial side of the movement, all the movement splints are decorated with pearl patterns. At the same time, we can also see that on the front of the movement, there is a very long curved lever. This is the lever that controls the function of the two places. When the two-time button (9 o’clock case) is pressed, this lever will push the two-time gear to adjust the time in the second time zone.

Function lever on both the front of the movement and the front of the movement.
 The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT chronograph uses an edge automatic rotor. We can see that there is a platinum bar weight on the ring of the edge automatic rotor. At the same time, there is a ring of teeth on the inside of the ring. During the rotation, the movement is wound through the teeth and the self-winding gear with the edge of the core. This is the principle of the automaton.

Bulgari edge automata structure.
 The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT chronograph uses a straddle balance wheel splint. The balance wheel is a ‘light pendulum’. The balance spring is adjusted using the fast and slow hands. The swing frequency is 28800. From the picture, after removing the balance wheel and balance plate, you can gradually see the key part of this watch, the timing mechanism.

The balance part of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT.
 We can see that the timing mechanism of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT uses a combination of a cylindrical wheel and a horizontal clutch. The combination of a cylindrical wheel and a horizontal clutch is the most traditional technical combination in a chronograph. Many modern chronographs use vertical clutches, but in order to reduce the thickness, Bulgari chooses horizontal clutches and thins parts in traditional technology.

The chronograph mechanism of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT uses a cylindrical wheel and a horizontal clutch.
 However, it is worth noting that despite the thinning, Bvlgari has not made any concessions on the key timing mechanism, and uses very large and sturdy parts. We can see that both the horizontal clutch clutch gear lever and the lever connected to the cylindrical wheel to control the start / stop / zero of the chronograph are very stout. It can also be seen that the ultra-thin watches are all “reinforced” on the core functional components.

The core timing components of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT are very stout.
 After removing the timing part, it is the main splint of the movement. At the same time, we can also see that the layer of the timing wheel is very thin. The main splint is the most basic timekeeping gear of the watch, including mainspring, second wheel, third wheel, second wheel, escapement wheel and so on. On the main splint, it can be seen that there are pearl patterns on the balance wheel and escapement wheel. The rest is covered by an upper splint, which is decorated with Geneva stripes.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT chronograph removes the timing wheel train.
 By dissecting the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT chronograph movement, it can be found that most of the movements use traditional constructions, which are not fundamentally different from traditional chronograph movements. But Bvlgari incorporated the edge automatic rotor into the chronograph movement, which greatly reduced the thickness of this watch, becoming the thinnest automatic chronograph in the world. In addition to Bulgari, like the Breguet’s 5377 ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon, Piaget’s 910P ultra-thin watches use edge automatic tourbillons to reduce the thickness of the watch. In recent years, Bulgari and Earl have competed fiercely in the ultra-thin field, and the court has resisted. Among them, the world’s thinnest manual chronograph is Piaget 883P, and the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph is Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT.

Parts of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT.
 Because Bulgari and Piaget both make jewelry, some players who are new to the world of watchmaking often regard them as pure ‘jewellery’ brands. In fact, each major brand has its own unique style and technology, each with its own strengths.

Dad’ Gas ‘report’ Now Oris 111 From The Movement And The New Classic Watch Father’s Day

In the life of a mature man, in addition to the ring on the ring finger, the accessory that is used most may be an elegant and practical watch. The footsteps of June are gradually approaching, and the festival belonging to my father will also come as scheduled. My father’s love is like a majestic mountain and a vast deep ocean, without words but full of affection, and the years faithfully record it all. On the occasion of Father’s Day, Swiss independent watchmaking brand Oris selected the Oris 111 self-moving movement and the new Classic watch, expressing its love and thanks to his father all over the world.

Oris 111 Self-Movement Watch-Pleasant Junya

   The Oris 111 Self-Movement Watch offers a mix of different materials and colors, providing a personalized choice between square inches, with a restrained edge that reflects the father’s mature elegance.

   In 2014, on the occasion of the 110th anniversary of the Oris brand, the 110-calibre watch was launched, which symbolizes the return to the self-developed movement. This unique hand-wound 110 movement carries a 10-day power reserve function and Non-linear power reserve display. In 2015, the Oris 111 movement watch continued this legend and achieved mass production. The 43mm Oris 111 self-calibre watch can be equipped with a stainless steel or 18K rose gold case. Stainless steel models are available in silver gray and ultraviolet black gold, while rose gold models are available in opal silver gold and maroon. Stainless steel with black alligator strap or stainless steel strap; 18K rose gold with brown or gray alligator strap. The combination of different materials and colors provides a personalized choice between square inches, and the restrained sharpness reflects the mature charm of his father’s graceful elegance. Based on the 110 self-calibrating watch, the 111 watches have added a calendar display function, which provides practical date reminders for busy fathers and keeps the time in their wrists.

   The Oris 111 self-calibre watch has added a calendar display function, which provides practical date reminders for fathers who work hard in their lives and careers, keeping the time firmly in their wrists.

Oris’ new Classic watch-interpretation of classics

   The unique style of Oris’s new Classic watches is derived from the inheritance of classics and the innovation of details; the image of father in life is dedicated and powerful, and in the ordinary years, he has continuously climbed new coordinates and created new surprises for creators. .

   In 2017, the Oris Classic watch was reinvented, and once again presented the traditional Swiss watchmaking style of Oris cultural mechanical watches. With a self-winding mechanical movement, a junior hand, a calendar display, a transparent case back, and a very competitive price, Oris’ new Classic watch meets all the requirements of an entry-level wild watch. Oris’s iconic large crown and red automatic oscillating weight give it both a distinctive personality and Oris classic elements. The wide selection of sizes, dial colors and straps also make it more freely immersed in the classic style, providing fathers many outstanding choices. In detail, Oris’s new Classic watch has some more classic interpretations: rose gold hands and scales with classical Roman numerals; the outer edge of the polished bezel adds a fine coin design; the lug shape is more Streamlined. The unique style of Oris’s new Classic watches is derived from the inheritance of classics and the innovation of details; the image of father in life is dedicated and powerful, and in the ordinary years, he continues to climb new coordinates and create new surprises .
product features
Oris Calibre 111-stainless steel

Product number: 111 7700 4061, watch diameter: Ø 43.00mm
Calibre 111 movement, completely developed by Oris
Manual winding, 3 Hz, 21,600 vph, single spring
10-day power reserve, non-linear power reserve display at 3 o’clock, small seconds and calendar window at 9 o’clock
Multi-piece stainless steel case and stainless steel crown, waterproof to 30 meters
Sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating on the inside
Sapphire glass rear mirror
Silver-gray or ultra-violet black gold dial with corresponding numerals and graduations, polished nickel hands
Black Louisiana Alligator Leather Belt with Stainless Steel Folding Buckle, Stainless Steel Strap Available
Wooden watch case with metal badge
Oris Calibre 111 – 18 K rose gold

Product number: 111 7700 6061, watch diameter: Ø 43.00mm
Oris Calibre 111 movement, completely developed by Oris
Manual winding, 3 Hz, 21,600 vph, single spring
10-day power reserve, non-linear power reserve display at 3 o’clock, small seconds and calendar window at 9 o’clock
Multi-piece 18K rose gold case and crown, water resistant to 30 meters
Sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating on the inside
Sapphire glass rear mirror
Ivory silver gold or maroon dial with corresponding numbers and scales, polished nickel hands
Dark brown or gray Louisiana alligator leather belt with 18K rose gold pin buckle,
Wooden watch case with metal badge
product features
Oris Classic New Watch-Stainless Steel

Product number: 733 7719 4071, watch diameter: Ø 42.00mm
Oris 733 automatic mechanical movement (SW200-1), 6 o’clock calendar display
Stainless steel case and crown, 50 meters waterproof
Double-sided arched sapphire mirror with anti-reflective coating on the inside
Screw-in transparent bottom cover
Silver or dark brown dial, Roman numerals, hands coated with Super-LumiNova®
Steel or leather strap

Oris Classic New Watch-Rose Gold

Product number: 733 7719 4373, watch diameter: Ø 42.00mm
Oris 733 automatic mechanical movement (SW200-1), 6 o’clock calendar display
Rose gold PVD case and crown, water resistant to 50 meters
Double-sided arched sapphire mirror with anti-reflective coating on the inside
Screw-in transparent bottom cover
Silver or dark brown dial, Roman numerals, hands coated with Super-LumiNova®
Steel or leather strap